J.W Anderson Men's Fall/Winter 2015

Jonathan Anderson has for sometime been seen as the de-facto enfant terrible of the London fashion scene. Such a title requires the designer in question to think completely outside the box and throw in some controversy every now and then; feats Mr Anderson is generally well versed at. In the past couple of seasons however, the investment by LVMH and his appointment as creative director of Loewe seem to have afforded him a dose of reality which he has been infused into the already established look he has created and this season, his latest menswear show has advanced this new direction further.

The collection was very quintessential to his image and look however, it contained a lot of desirable and wearable pieces in a very well balanced mix that juxtaposed the conceptual with the commercial in a way that I consider as brilliant. He has also proved himself to be a master of colours as he mixed bright colours and darker ones in very compelling ways. Another development is the extensive use of more luxurious materials. While JW Anderson may generally be seen as a contemporary high fashion brand, Mr Anderson seems to believe that emphasis on luxury is indeed essential for the brand at this stage in its rather young life. Soft leathers, pony skin, velvet and what looked like suede were very much present throughout the collection.

In terms of inspiration, there was a clear 70s vibe going on. It however, did not look retro. Instead, it looked very now. Some may feel that the world still isn't ready for such gender-bending looks and that may be understandable. But on the other hand, this collection represents the future of menswear that we have all been waiting for, one which has been so desperately needed. The high waisted trousers and the open slits as well as the jackets with the large buttons were Mr Anderson's odes to the discussion of gender neutrality, and in this case, the outcome was very desirable. The huge scarves with fringed edges were also a welcome addition to what was already an otherwise sublime collection.

It is clear, from this latest outing, that the brand has evolved to a position where Mr Anderson has to embrace the world around him while he continues to insist on his vision. There was no departure from this vision, but instead, there was an air of maturity that surrounded the pieces here. The JW Anderson man is grown up but he certainly has not forgotten how he started.

OpxD


photos: style.com