Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Fall/Winter 2015

Stefano Pilati kicked off fashion week in Milan with an intriguing collection from Ermenegildo Zegna couture. In his fourth outing for the brand, Mr Pilati presented a set of ideas that were quite interesting in many ways. The collection was showcased in a forest like setting. In a sense, there was some irony going on here as the forest bared resemblance to a tropical one where cold winters are normally absent. So what exactly was the message Mr Pilati trying to convey here? Function and sustainability within the realm of pure luxury. This message resonated profoundly throughout the show.

The selection of silhouettes were quintessential Pilati; boxy coats and slim but not skinny blazers. Trousers came in three forms; in a very loose and baggy shape, a loose but fitted one with a banded cut out at the ankle and cropped ones with obvious cargo pants references. All of these were a continuation of the evolution of the traditional nature of the Zegna brand. However, what made this collection interesting was the styling and more importantly the fabrics.

The opening coats and blazers were made out of what looked like glazed tweed which had a shiny effect; as though they had been through heavy rain. This was risky, but it worked. It could have easily looked tacky, but there was a dose of subtlety that soothed its screaming voice. Then there were the velvet blazers and corduroy trousers which were presented in faded jewel tone colours. These conveyed a 70s feel, a decade that seems to be nostalgic to many a designer this season. As the collection progressed more innovative materials began to surface. There was a particular transparent parka coat with a plaid pattern which was apparently made out of recycled polyurethane trimmed with tweed. this jacket in a way, summarised the entire collection. It infused luxury, practicality in terms of protection, and sustainability all in one compelling piece.

The accessories also played a defining role in this collection. The way they were styled together with the outfits allowed for a certain vibe to be interpreted; one that defined the man depicted here as some sort of explorer in love with nature. Some of it looked great, such as the baseball hats made out of wool and the waist bags. The backpacks will also certainly be a hit however, when styled as a frontpack, as the case was in three looks, it didn't really jell well even if I understood the idea behind. It furthered the notion of functionality as the ease of access to the contents of the bag is part of the practicality one desires in this type of luxury. I just wish they were purpose built to be worn that way. In this case, it seemed like an afterthought.

Mr Pilati made a relevant contribution to the fashion conversation because he took an ethical cause and attempted to make it genuinely fashionable and luxurious. And in spite of all this, Mr Pilati hasn't forgotten to continue to depict his ideal man as an elegant dandy. In this instance, he passed in stupendous colours. The Zegna evolution continues and I can't just help but wonder what Mr Pilati has in store for us next season.

OpxD


photos: style.com