Throwback: Prada Men's S/S 2009

Miucca Prada is undoubtedly one of the most influential designers fashion has ever seen. She is very well known for making "ugly" cool and in vogue. This ability to transform things that one would otherwise associate with a lack of beauty or even tackiness into something thought provoking has earned her a spot at the hall of fame of great fashion designers. I'd admit that when I started following fashion back in 2008, I never really understood Prada. It was always so confusing and I never even bothered to take the time to understand or absorb anything she did. So when she revealed her Spring/Summer 2009 men's collection I of course, once again did not understand it, or even try to. But 5 years down, I wish this was the collection going into stores in January 2015.

Mrs Prada said she was influenced by a man hanging in balance between fragility and power. The tension between these two opposing notions was demonstrated through the nonchalant way most of the formal pieces were styled. For instance, sleeves were rolled up to reveal the linings on double breasted coats and were worn with open shirts,  and loose parka's worn over slightly loose formal trousers. There were also cropped sweaters, long polo tops, fine denim and transparent plastic jackets; all styled in a way that invoked a sense of formality but ended up being casual and languid which is what gave this collection genuine flare.

Mrs Prada also started an important conversation about how menswear is to evolve. A somewhat stagnant section of fashion just up until a few years ago, this collection was one that set the stage for experimentation in menswear that could actually resonate with people. Perhaps it came a bit too early, at least in my case however, its effects are still being felt today. There was also a gender bending angle which surfaced itself in the form of the loose sweaters; which exposed the midriff in some cases, and the long polo tops which could pass as casual summer dresses for women. In spite of this, the men did not look emasculated but rather possessed a "new" form of masculinity that exposed the fragility that represents the other end of the spectrum. 

In many ways, this can even be classified as a re-enactment of classic, baroque masculinity. In the 18th century - during the enlightenment revolution - the idea of romanticism was rife and this showed in the clothes. They didn't exude our modern day interpretation of masculinity back then but instead relied on heavy brocades and sharp shaped coats to juxtapose the lace, bows and excessive froufrou - which represented fragility in this case - to balance the act. One can say that Mrs Prada may have revisited the reality of the past in order to define the essence of masculinity in the present.   

  

This collection resonates very well with me. Over time, I have noticed so many similarities between myself and the man depicted here; one who is torn between two completely different passions which requires very different attitudes; like an artist having to attend meetings on wall street. Indeed this was a beautiful collection that as a designer, I may reference one day in the future. 

OpxD


photos: style.com